makeup

Grooming In Public

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Lately I’ve been musing that one of the less rewarding parts of “growing up” (look at me all grown-up, with my inverted commas) is learning social grace. Learning to assimilate oneself with the common people.

Oftentimes this means learning to conceal or eradicate one’s personal quirks. How sad that we have to un-learn things that we did while we were at our most carefree. For example, when I was younger, in my more innocent days, I would wear the weirdest, most out-there outfits I could put together just so that I was standing out from the crowd. People stared and whispered, but I cared not a jot. My theory was that people’s opinions shouldn’t affect how we behave.The idea that it should, made no sense to me. On some level, it still makes no sense to me. Why should we let petty judgement affect how we act?

In terms of social behaviour, what makes sense is never usually the point. We seem to adhere to a set of rules that go unquestioned. They are rarely mused upon because they seem insignificant, but consider the fact that these rules impact our everyday lives and yet they are followed without criticism?

One aspect of this is public grooming.

(I hope I didn’t make any typos there.)

Today I found myself with an empty can of deodorant. So while running various other errands, I picked up a can of deodorant at Boots. But a question: where to spray? I wanted to do it right then and there in the middle of Prince’s Street; I could smell myself after I rode my bike into the city centre and the scent wasnot an attractive one. So I would have preferred to fix the problem as soon as possible. What was stopping me? Social grace. I eventually cycled across the town and did it in the uni bathrooms. But what would have been so wrong about doing it then and there? Does it make others uncomfortable to see others in a state of…indignity? Is it undignified to deodorise oneself? Does it spoil my mysterious allure? Applying lipstick, brushing your hair, plucking your eyebrows – these all reside on a scale of what is and isn’t considered acceptable to do in a public space.

Is it a sort-of sexist thing too? Calm down, guys, just exploring a thought. Women generally have more gender-specific grooming options than men. Would we think twice about a man stopping in the street to use some anti-persiprant? Perhaps society would like to think women wake up in the morning with neat hair, neat eyebrows and all the while smelling good, despite running for the 8:30 bus, only for the driver to drive on despite you rapping you sweaty palms on the door?

The feminine mystique is a myth. Whether you groom every detail of your form or just stick to spraying on a bit of Sure when you wake up, few of us get up without considering ourselves. So why can’t we let anyone else in on the secret? The guy beside you on the 8:45 bus (I was 15 minutes late, thanks for asking) probably did something like you did this morning, whether it was plucking a stray chin hair or running a hand through his highlights, it was something. So stop being so bashful, blow away the smoke and whip out the mirrors to check your blush – and let it be from Benefit’s Dallas powder, not embarrassment.

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Pretty Hurts: Is Makeup Highlighting Our Power , or Just Concealing the Ugly Truth

Me and make-up haven’t always got along. When I was around 11 years old and in my faux-punk black everything phase, I rejected it as an activity only a “girly-girl” (the horror) would partake in. Fast-forward two years, and I had discovered the witchy, beautifully raccoon-like visage that too-light foundation and black kohl on my lower eye rim could offer. Fast forward three more years, and I was wearing tinted moisturiser and mascara sporadically, when I could be bothered in those slovenly school mornings. There was ventures into green eyeshadow, shaky liquid liner, and most regrettably, foundation as “natural-look” lipstick (thank the MAC gods I have since discovered Creme D’Nude). In my final years at school I had found my best eyeshadow colours, my favourite way to shape my eyes with liquid liner, and how to apply mascara without contracting self-induced conjunctivitis. But I balanced those days of wearing makeup with many days of a bare face. This is because I always seemed to have two different feminists on either of my shoulders – one who said that makeup was empowering, and one who said I was betraying myself and compromising my feminist ideals by pandering to the instructions of the patriarchy, to cover up supposed imperfections which they had deemed unacceptable. I have always been torn between what it really means to wear makeup.

There seems to be much conflict in the feminist community about this topic. Makeup falls under the category of external beauty, which, as we all know, is a topic feminism has covered very well. Photoshop used in fashion magazines has been widely criticised as creating an unreachable beauty standard for women. Diversity within the fashion world is better than ever, but that’s not saying much, as it still largely consists of UK size 4 white women under 25. So logically, the topic of makeup has also been critiqued and questioned. However, it was mostly the second wave feminists who began this critique and who were its loudest critics. They believed that makeup sent the message that a woman’s appearance was insufficient without cosmetic assistance, that their natural features weren’t good enough on their own. Meanwhile, men were free to be as old, ugly and spotty as they liked, because their superficial appearance was not what they were valued for. But then, the early 1990’s saw a shift in this opinion. Third wave feminism birthed “Lipstick Feminism”, introducing a brand of feminism which saw makeup as an empowering tool to be celebrated, largely using it to make themselves look even less like the ideal object of the male gaze, with loud red lipstick and garish black eyeliner, eschewing the powdery-pink, sugary-sweet makeup trends of the ’90s with a counterculture of “Riot Grrrls.” They were deliberately misusing makeup to counter the dictation of the patriarchy.

But was it a true victory?

Many feminists have covered the subject of female beauty ideals extensively-most prominently has been Naomi Wolf, whose fantastic feminist tome “The Beauty Myth” dealt with the impossible standards set by men via advertising and the media. She writes, “A culture fixated on female thinness is not an obsession about female beauty, but an obsession about female obedience. Dieting is the most potent political sedative in women’s history; a quietly mad population is a tractable one.” Her argument is that dictation of the female appearance is used to hinder women’s advancement in the world. “Bang on, Wolfy!” I thought as I read. Then, after a beat and a Victory Bite of a panini, I thought to myself, “Oh…” as I glanced down at my bulging makeup bag.

But I’m not necessarily conforming to any beauty ideal by painting on navy-blue eyeliner and dabbing on a dark berry lipstick just to look a little rad, am I? After all, David Bowie did it and though he had male privilege in truly choosing to do it, he looked pretty damn cool. He used makeup as self-expression, so why can’t we? It can’t be anti-feminist just to want to look a bit like David Bowie.

These days, in the era of “Fourth Wave Feminism” (or “Tumblr Feminism” as I like to call it), there is a strong argument for makeup as being synonymous with empowerment. Blog articles, think pieces and popular Tumblr posts alike have all supported the idea that wearing makeup doesn’t mean surrendering to the patriarchal agenda, “because we’re not wearing it for men. We’re wearing it for ourselves.”

Here lies my quibble. Are we really wearing it for ourselves? And if we are, does that mean it’s not conforming to the beauty ideal? Most beauty companies are still largely owned by men, and in those big advertising agencies, it is men who are deciding how to sell you products you don’t actually need. Does buying into it all not still mean that we’re deeming ourselves insufficient in our natural state?

This type of feminism is also the kind that irks me with how liberal and tolerant it is in terms of what women do. They argue the idea that feminism dictating what it is right for women to do with their bodies is counter-productive and sexist in itself.  However, I would counter that if we don’t challenge the rhyme and reason of our actions, then aren’t we letting ourselves off with an awful lot? Part of being a feminist is self-examination. As products of a patriarchal society, we often do sexist things every day without thinking. We often stab ourselves in our own proverbial backs without thinking, because we have been conditioned not to think about these things. Cutting ourselves a bit of slack when we do these things is good, because we, as feminists, are bound to mess up at some point. But completely absolving ourselves of responsibility for our actions just because we are products of the machine is self-victimising and proffers a very light, easy, fat-free kind of feminism I’m not interested in consuming.

I suppose my point is what I probably always knew deep down: that by concealing “flaws” that all humans have and that men do not feel the need to cover up, we are falling privy to the pressures of the beauty ideal. I should hold myself accountable for these missteps. Yet I also believe there’s no harm in painting on a dramatic eye or lip because it is really quite a lot of fun to do, and who am I to be the feminist killjoy?*

Confession: I quite like being the feminist killjoy.

Ethical Beauty

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Confession: I love a good lipstick. And a good eyeliner. And a good self-heating mud mask. The gigantic, costly, mystical world of beauty leaves me endlessly fascinated. Which lipstick is best for my colouring? Does my moisturiser need an SPF? Does anybody even know what a BB Cream is? These are all questions that I’ve asked over a long love affair with the beauty world. But recently I’ve been asking myself a new, broader question that goes further than the superficial : where are my products coming from?

The beauty industry is older than one might think. In 400 BC, Greek Olympic athletes covered their bodies with a ‘sunscreen’ mixture of sand and oil to protect their skin from the sun. Ancient Romans used a mixture of soil and water in their hair, rolled with textiles and baked it in the sun to create temporary waves (I think I’ll stick to my Morroccanoil, thanks).

Today, technology is moving so fast that it’s difficult to keep up with the new “superproducts” on the market. From BB to CC creams and at-home laser treatments, it’s a maquillage minefield. The beauty industry is one of the most profitable in the United Kingdom, grossing approximately £6.2bn in revenue a year, employing over a quarter of a million citizens. 

It seems inevitable that it has an ugly side.

On researching the beauty ethics and trade policies of some of the most popular brands on the market, I was shocked by the ethics of most of them. Ethicalconsumer.org measures each company on their ethics by evaluating their policies on a variety of levels, including their effect on climate change, political activities, arms and military supply and their human rights. They give full investigative reports on brands to online members.

The website nottested.co.uk evaluates beauty companies’ stance on animal testing in the manufacturing of their products. Animal testing is one of my biggest concerns when purchasing beauty products. An animal lover myself, for animals to come to harm simply in order for humans to decorate their outside appearance is an appalling thought. I have discovered that one of the biggest culprits of animal testing is L’Oreal. One of the biggest beauty companies out there, it is also the owner of a good number of smaller beauty brands. One significant brand they own is The Body Shop. Most controversially, L’Oreal bought the Body Shop a few years ago and since then, some customers have noticed a decline in quality. The most pressing issue, however, is whether The Body Shop remains cruelty free. Upon contacting them, they replied that they remain cruelty free despite being owned by L’Oreal, but I remain skeptical. I was pleased to see that some of my favourite brands, such as Benefit and NARS, do not test on animals, but horrified to learn that MAC had been bought by Estée Lauder, another guilty “supercompany.” MAC’s previous stance on animal testing was absolutely anti-cruelty, but now their official statement is that they only use it “when the law requires it.” An oft-repeated statement from brands who test on animals, I’m irritated by capitalism’s role to play in all of this. The largest companies remain the most corrupt and most powerful, while the smallest companies have the choice to either go under after they are unable to compete with the big names, or sell their company to the big names – subsequently, the ethics change with the owner.

Another concern is the trade of natural beauty ingredients. Morroccanoil has to come from somewhere, and I doubt that it’s someone’s back garden in England. Natural ingredients such as Argan oil, coconut oil and lavender tend to come from the poorest countries, and only the most ethical of brands are committed to close ties with communities and fair trade agreements so that these people are not exploited. Companies such as Neal’s Yard Remedies, Jurlique, Aesop and Antipodes all take their responsibility as ethical natural brands very seriously, with some having fair trade agreements with communities and some sourcing their ingredients in their own local farms. 

After investigating more into the concept of Ethical beauty, it has become apparent that I have a lot more to investigate and research. But it’s worth it- the more we try and use products that are responsibly sourced and ethically manufactured, the more it will become the norm in the beauty industry. There’s no harm in contacting your favourite beauty companies and asking some questions you’re concerned about. They nearly always reply and they’re required by law to tell you truth – so sometimes it takes a little reading in between the lines to gauge the real answer. 

So if you expect your favourite brands’ ethics to be as glowing as their reviews on feelunique.com, be sure to investigate them and push for change!

TOP 5 ETHICAL BEAUTY PRODUCTS

1. Neal’s Yard Remedies Power Berry Moisturiser

2. Antipodes Lime & Patchouli Cleanser 

3. Burt’s Bees Badger Lip Kit

4. Aesop Nurturing Conditioner

5. Jurlique Fruit Enzyme Exfoliator